Canadian Artisan
Cheese Exports to the U.S. Hit by Trump’s 50% Tariffs
The Trump administration’s tariffs are slowing
Americans’ access to the cheese just as producers were finding a foothold stateside.
·
Tariff
impact: The Trump administration’s 50% tariffs on Canadian cheese, imposed in September
2026, have disrupted exports, slowed sales and forced producers to reconsider expansion
plans in the U.S. market.
·
Growing
popularity: Canadian artisan cheesemakers had gained recognition after winning several
medals, including back-to-back Best-in-Show honours at the American Cheese Society
awards in 2024 and 2025.
·
Trade barriers:
Canadian cheese exports already face strict import quotas, regulatory paperwork
and customs procedures, making access to the U.S. market difficult for smaller producers.
·
Supply
management system: Canada’s dairy policy, which uses production quotas and price
controls to support farmers, has helped maintain milk quality and encouraged investment
in animal welfare and cheese production.
·
Legal challenge:
Gellert Global Group, a U.S. food importer, has challenged the tariffs in court,
estimating that the additional duties could cost its business $40 million annually.
·
Industry
opposition: Cheese importers are seeking exemptions for products made with U.S.
milk and Canadian goat and sheep milk, arguing that the tariffs could also hurt
American dairy farmers and consumers.
·
Higher
consumer prices: The tariffs could raise some premium Canadian cheeses from $40
to $60 per pound or more, reducing demand and turning artisan products into luxury
goods.
·
Uncertain
outlook: Several Canadian creameries have paused or reconsidered their U.S. expansion
plans, while importers and retailers face lower margins, higher prices and the risk
of unsold perishable products.
[ABS News Service/23.10.2026]
Cheese
nerds are an excitable bunch. These days, if you want to see them get super excited,
just mention Canada.
Their
eyes will light up as they tell you about the haul of gold, silver and bronze medals
Canadian cheesemakers took home from the American Cheese Society awards in 2024
and 2025, including best-in-show honors two years in a
row.
They
may swoon over the organic operation at Fromagerie La Station in Compton, Quebec,
where animal welfare is taken so seriously that the 150 milking cows rest on water
beds after grazing in rolling Appalachian foothills 100 miles east of Montreal.
They may chuckle as they talk about idiosyncratic characters like Jean Morin, the
cheesemaker at Fromagerie du Presbytère, who converted
a historic church into an aging cave where the wheels are turned by robots and who
helped set a Guinness World Record for the largest serving of poutine. (It weighed
more than three tons.)
Most
exciting of all, they’ll tell you, is that these products and others are now for
sale in the United States, many of them for the first time. “Some of these cheeses
are as good as any in the world,” said Brad Dubé, who imports and distributes several
through his Brooklyn-based firm, Food Matters Again.
Then,
if you want to see how quickly excitement can change to a different emotion, ask
about tariffs.
The
50 percent tariffs that President Trump slapped on Canadian cheese last month have
caused havoc up and down the supply chain. Mongers and customers have had to cool
their budding romance with Canadian cheese just as it was starting to get interesting.
Makers who had been eyeing the new enthusiasm for their products from south of the
border have put their plans on hold.
Some
who were exporting already are not shipping anything right now. Like their American
trading partners and retailers, they are hoping the tariffs are scaled back. While
they wait, all of them are taking a hard look at how far they are willing to trim
their margins.
“It’s
immediately had an impact,” Mr. Dubé said. The momentum had been “quite real,” he
said, but fizzled out on the news of the tariffs. “I have seen the downturn in my
sales.”
The
United States imports far less cheese from Canada than it does from Italy and France.
Before crossing the border, Canadian cheese must pass through a thicket of quotas
and regulatory paperwork. Until recently, most small-scale producers found the work
too much to handle.
Simply
sending a Canadian cheese to the American Cheese Society awards is an ordeal. Aspiring
contestants have been turned back at the border. Since 2023, staff and volunteers
at the University of Guelph in Ontario have smoothed the way by taking in every
sample from about a dozen cheesemakers, checking the paperwork, retaining a customs
broker, loading all the cheeses on pallets and sending them off in a refrigerated
truck.
Mary
Ann Ferrer, a professor of food science at the university, who leads the effort,
said that when the cheeses arrive at the competition, “everybody there gets excited
and even applauds.”
Fromagerie
La Station entered the awards for the first time in 2024, the year it began exporting
cheese to the United States.
“We
thought, let’s just apply and see what happens,” said Catherine Durand, the head
of sales and marketing. La Station’s cheeses won eight medals, including best-in-show
honors for its Raclette de Compton au poivre, which has
a spicy seam of pink peppercorns in the middle. “That was really, really amazing,
and everybody was like, ‘Who are they?’”
Fewer
people asked that question when La Station won best in show again the following
year, this time with Alfred Le Fermier, an Alpine-style raw cow’s milk wheel.
Trade
barriers help explain why the mere existence of great Canadian cheese comes as a
surprise to many Americans. It’s also true, though, that artisanal cheesemaking
in the country really took off only in the last 15 years or so, alongside an already
thriving industry of larger producers turning out Cheddar and other cheeses. Once
the craft movement coalesced, though, it moved rapidly.
“The
Canadian artisan cheese scene has not been around as long as California’s or Vermont’s,
but they’ve gotten to that same level of quality in a much shorter time,” said James
Hanly, the sales director at Provisions International, a food importer and distributor
based in White River Junction, Vt.
Craft
cheesemakers had a head start because Canadian milk is of high quality, governed
by strict safety regulations and an agricultural policy of price setting, production
quotas and high tariffs on imports. Known as the supply management system, the policy
was designed to provide basic economic stability for dairies, protecting them from
the steep dives in milk prices often seen on open commodity markets. Supporters
say that farmers who don’t lie awake worrying about foreclosure can invest in equipment,
facilities and animal care.
“If
farmers are able to make a reasonable living with what they’ve got, there’s less
drive to cut every last cent of cost,” said Shep Ysselstein, the founder of Gunn’s
Hill Artisan Cheese in Woodstock, Ontario. “That’s when things start to get compromised.
You might not spend as much money on bedding, for example, which can impact the
cows.”
One
person who does not care for the supply management system is Mr. Trump. Calling
it “discrimination” against U.S. commerce, he cited it as the rationale for his
50 percent tariffs in a proclamation in September.
After
a short time of seeming to wait for the new levies to go away, as some of Mr. Trump’s
earlier ones did, industry opposition has started to form. This week, a lawsuit
challenging the tariffs was filed on behalf of Gellert Global Group, a food importer
and distributor based in Elizabeth, N.J., which estimated that it could have to
pay $40 million a year on the Canadian cheese it brings into the United States.
Thomas
Gellert, the company’s chief executive, said in an interview last month that his
firm imports Brie from Canada made with New York State milk, which is less expensive
than Canadian milk. Tariffs on that cheese, he said, will hurt American dairy farmers
and consumers.
A
trade group representing cheese importers has asked for an exemption from the new
tariffs for cheeses made with milk from the states as well as those made with Canadian
goat and sheep milk. The United States does not have enough dairy goats to produce
all the soft goat cheese Americans eat.
“The
U.S. relies heavily on Canada and Europe for its supply of that soft goat cheese,
and has for a long time,” said Mark Anderson, chief executive of Mariposa Dairy,
a goat- and sheep-cheese maker based in Lindsay, Ontario. Goat milk is traded outside
Canada’s supply management system, he said, so if that system is the reason for
the tariffs, “it kind of misses the mark.”
For
smaller cheesemakers that have only begun to test the American market, the tariffs
may not put a huge dent in their finances. COWS Creamery, an ice cream and cheese
company on Prince Edward Island, exports only a small amount of its distinctly creamy
and grassy Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar to the United States, said Chad Heron, the
chief executive.
“The
most recent tariffs or bans or whatever nonsense Trump is up to won’t have a material
impact on us, but it will cause a bunch of people a bunch of pain and that is too
bad,” Mr. Heron wrote in an email.
Several
other creameries had been planning to catch the wave of American interest in Canada.
Whether they will move ahead or wait for the trade war to end is an open question.
“We
actually already have a distributor ready to sell our cheeses in the U.S.,” said
Bérangère Boivin-Côté, a manager at Fromagerie Médard in St.-Gédéon, Quebec. Médard’s
soft, European-style washed rind cheese Le Cousin was the first runner-up for American
Cheese Society’s best-in-show title in 2024, and everybody there believed momentum
for Canadian cheese was growing in the states. “However, we know that entering a
new market can be challenging especially with the tariffs that are currently in
place.”
The
math on a 50 percent tax is punishing for artisanal products. Even if everybody
in the supply chain agrees to swallow some of the tax, most of it will be passed
on to consumers, said Eric Frechette, an owner of Provisions International. And
the new prices could stop shoppers in their tracks.
“On
a cheese counter in New York, things that went for $40 a pound are going to be $60
a pound or more,” said Alex Brown, the wholesale cheesemonger for Gourmet Imports
in Alhambra, Calif. “Which bumps them from higher value quality cheeses to precious
luxury goods.”
For
shops, unsold cheese very quickly becomes money wasted.
“We’ll
be forced to either drop a product or accept astronomical prices,” said Marc Hernandez,
the cheese buyer for Formaggio Kitchen, based in Cambridge,
Mass. “That will be a risk, particularly when dealing with a perishable product
that could go bad before we can sell it.”